Ilja Rijs buys like the good watches are already gone

He built Benjamin Marcello with no investors, a small book, and a rule about purchasing. It works. Here is how.

Words by The Worldwatch Desk7 min read5 July 2026

Ilja Rijs of Benjamin Marcello
Ilja Rijs of Benjamin Marcello

Ilja Rijs believes the best watches have already been made. He says it without irony. "It sounds very cliché, but I really believe in a certain quality which does not exist any more. What was made in the past is simply better made. That's the message I want to give my customers."

Most dealers say something like this to sell a watch. Rijs built his whole business on it.

Benjamin Marcello sits at Herengracht 420 in Amsterdam. Viewings by appointment. The watches sit in a bank vault. The inventory is small on purpose. Rijs made the name up himself, a nod to the Italian collectors who taught the market to take vintage watches seriously.

I sat down with him to find out how a young dealer makes old values pay.

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Still to come

  • It started with a drawer
  • Margin or turnover. Pick one.
  • The money is lost when you buy
  • The cheapest edge in the trade
  • Success, on his terms
  • Starting today
  • Dealer's notebook

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Benjamin Marcello
Benjamin Marcello

Ilja Rijs, Founder, Benjamin Marcello

Specialty

Forgotten quality — Vacheron Constantin, Longines, Movado, Universal